Floor lamps are an opportunity to be really creative.
Size and shape can be about anything I can dream of as long as they
balance their weight, contain a power cord and switch mechanism, and
carry some light bulbs. I like having a central tapered spindle. I
think it gives a classic feel of elegance.
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|Victorian Street Lamp -- bubinga, maple, wenge -- 7 feet tall --
I've always liked Victorian streetlights, and built this as the lamp
for my living room. All of my lamps have a brass ring that acts as
a 3-way touch switch. Of all the lamps I've built, this is my favorite.
|Square Lamp -- zebrawood, canarywood, walnut -- 5 feet tall --
I originally planned for this lamp to have an ornate
Victorian shade with colored silk and fringe. When
company making the shade was destroyed in a flood
I built this stained glass shade as an alternative. It is not a great
design because stained glass is quite heavy and the point where the
shade attaches to the rest of the lamp is not strong enough to
bear the weight well. But I rather like it, and it stands in my office
next to my computer desk.
|Flora Lumenaire -- goncolo alves, maple
burl, mango, walnut -- 6 feet tall -- The vast
majority of stained glass lamp shades are copies of Tiffany designs.
These shades are closed at top where they attach to the harp to
maintain strength. Forcing heat generated by the bulbs to escape
out the bottom of the shade causes heat build up that requires
lower wattage bulbs. However, stained glass shades always look
better with high wattage bulbs. Having six flat stained glass
panels that are carried by a wood framework that vents to the
top solves this problem. And casting the light upward provides
a lot more light to the room. The wood framework also avoids the
fragility of suspending the entire shade from a single point that
is the bane of most stained glass shades.