Maple Burl

Stone Infill





Odds &

Atlantis Art

Custom Furniture and Woodworking
Brent Baker -- Corvallis, Oregon

Floor Lamps

Floor lamps are an opportunity to be really creative. Size and shape can be about anything I can dream of as long as they balance their weight, contain a power cord and switch mechanism, and carry some light bulbs. I like having a central tapered spindle. I think it gives a classic feel of elegance.

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Victorian Street Lamp -- bubinga, maple, wenge -- 7 feet tall --   I've always liked Victorian streetlights, and built this as the lamp for my living room. All of my lamps have a brass ring that acts as a 3-way touch switch. Of all the lamps I've built, this is my favorite.
Square Lamp -- zebrawood, canarywood, walnut -- 5 feet tall --   I originally planned for this lamp to have an ornate Victorian shade with colored silk and fringe. When company making the shade was destroyed in a flood I built this stained glass shade as an alternative. It is not a great design because stained glass is quite heavy and the point where the shade attaches to the rest of the lamp is not strong enough to bear the weight well. But I rather like it, and it stands in my office next to my computer desk.
Flora Lumenaire -- goncolo alves, maple burl, mango, walnut -- 6 feet tall --   The vast majority of stained glass lamp shades are copies of Tiffany designs. These shades are closed at top where they attach to the harp to maintain strength. Forcing heat generated by the bulbs to escape out the bottom of the shade causes heat build up that requires lower wattage bulbs. However, stained glass shades always look better with high wattage bulbs. Having six flat stained glass panels that are carried by a wood framework that vents to the top solves this problem. And casting the light upward provides a lot more light to the room. The wood framework also avoids the fragility of suspending the entire shade from a single point that is the bane of most stained glass shades.